Castilla y Leon

Leon's principal attraction is its grand 13th century cathedral, a gothic masterpiece. It was beautifully lit that evening as I explored the town, looking for somewhere to eat. I wandered past Gaudi's Casa de Bontines and into the Barrio Humedo, the cities gothic quarter, eventually settling for a quiet place on a narrow street just off the picturesque Plaza Mayor. Inside the cathedral, the following morning, light was beginning to permeate its stained glass windows to reveal an equally impressive interior.

I continued south deeper into Castilla y Leon province, stopping for lunch at the ancient town of Zamora. Its cobbled streets contain some beautifully preserved Romanesque churches dating back as the 12th and 13th centuries. The remains of its castle and city walls delineate its western edge overlooking the Rio Duero. Another hours drive south took to me Salamanca, a city rich in artistic and academic history.

Sophisticated Salamanca revealed itself to be a real treasure and I regretted not allowing at least a full day to enjoy its charms. The elegant Plaza Mayor, with its splendid 18th century baroque facades, is very much the cities heart and an enjoyable place to pass the time. The beautiful old town is dominated by the hybrid of the old and new cathedrals, a fusion of romanesque, gothic, churrigueresque baroque and byzantine styles. There was just about enough time to appreciate its interior before being told it was closing, denying me the chance to climb the tower of the old cathedral. The sandstone facade to the universities entrance is another architectural delight, a tapestry of Renaissance scenes and mythical creatures.

My route to Madrid, the next morning, took me via Avila, which proved to be a lovely place to break the journey and enjoy a leisurely lunch. The old city is enclosed by a well preserved medieval wall and its a delight to wander its cobbled streets and quiet plazas. Highlights inside the city, include the gothic cathedral, the convent of Santa Teresa and the monastery of Santo Tomas.